Job No 1) Make and fit a coil relocation bracket
I while back I had purchased a coil relocation bracket from eBay (a USA seller) but when it came it didn't fit the couls I had (it wasn't wide enough). I had therefore planned to make a new bracket which included a stainless cover, however this proved harder to fabricate than I originally thought so a rethink was required. In the end I just cut out the middle section of the bracket I had purchased, extended them with longer lengths of threaded bar and then bolted them to the top of the footwells.
This approach works well as the majority of the coil is hidden underneath the bodywork however it is well placed for running the wires to the engine.
Due to having a few other jobs to complete I'll come back to making the wires later.
Job No 3) Extend the lambda sensor wires
This job was fairly straight forward just very time consuming. Essentially I had to add a 6 inch section of wire into the Canems ECU lambda wires on the drivers side. Luckily I had similar coloured wires and a soldering kit to get on with it, but it could have easily been done by adding in another 4 way connector or even using crimp terminals.
Job No 4) Attach the water pump hoses to the heater & 5) Clamp the heater wires in place
This sounds straight forward but actually it took some doing. The T7 heater setup with electronic controls for old air products that I have require a valve to be inserted into the water pipes, something which I intended to do just inside the engine bay but I didnt have room between the engine and footwell. I have managed to install this in the cockpit/dash area by cutting more of the fibreglass away - something which I may have to customise later.
Once this was done I ran the tubes, connecting to the wing, then the cross member (under the radiator water bottle, onto the lower radiator hose then onto two U bend tubes onto the water heater. A mixture of zip ties and P-clips were used as appropriate.
Job No 9) Bleed brake and clutch lines
Whilst bleeding the brake and clutch lines I noticed something weird. The clutch pedal would only move about 3 inches and was sat lower than the brake pedal. Rather than guess the problem I asked on the cobra forum and a member (zaidesmail) advised to try just simply pulling the pedal out to its correct height then pushing it back in again. This resolved the problem and the pedal now works as expected.
The new brake light switch that I had inserted into the lines was a bit problematic and refused to stop leaking until I reworked the connections. That teaches me for buying cheap connections from stoneleigh instead of the ones I knew worked just fine from CBS.
This just leaves the last few jobs to complete the engine bay:
2) Make and fit the HT leads
6) Attached the steering column
7) Fit the bonnet
Plus a couple I hadn't thought of :-) ......typical of the build I suppose
8) Fit the brake and clutch lines to the wing
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